Crankshaft Position Sensor vs Wheel Bearing Clicking Sound When Turning Comparison

If your car is making a clicking sound when you turn the steering wheel, you're probably trying to figure out what's causing it. Two common culprits get confused often: a failing crankshaft position sensor and a worn wheel bearing. They sound different, come from different places, and mean very different things for your car's health. Knowing which one you're dealing with saves you money, time, and the stress of guessing wrong at the repair shop.

What does a crankshaft position sensor do, and why would it click?

The crankshaft position sensor monitors the speed and position of your engine's crankshaft. It sends data to the engine control unit (ECU) so the computer knows when to fire spark plugs and inject fuel. When this sensor starts failing, it can cause engine misfires, stalling, rough idling, and in some cases, unusual sounds from the engine bay that get mistaken for mechanical clicking.

However, the clicking from a bad crankshaft position sensor is usually tied to engine operation, not steering. It happens whether you're turning or driving straight. The sound comes from the engine area and is often accompanied by a check engine light. If you're hearing a click only when turning, the crankshaft sensor is probably not the source.

What causes a wheel bearing to click when turning?

A worn wheel bearing supports the weight of your vehicle and allows the wheel hub to spin smoothly. When it wears out, you'll hear a clicking, grinding, or humming noise that changes with speed and gets louder during turns. This happens because turning shifts the vehicle's weight to one side, putting more load on the damaged bearing.

The sound typically comes from one corner of the car front left, front right, rear left, or rear right. If the noise gets louder when you turn left, the right wheel bearing is likely the problem, and vice versa. That directional clue is one of the easiest ways to tell a wheel bearing issue apart from engine noise.

How can I tell the difference between these two sounds?

Here are the key differences that help you narrow it down:

When it happens: Crankshaft sensor issues cause engine-related noise during normal driving. Wheel bearing noise changes with turns and speed.
Where it comes from: Crankshaft sensor sounds originate from the engine bay. Wheel bearing sounds come from near the wheels.
Turning behavior: Wheel bearing clicking gets louder or softer depending on which direction you turn. Crankshaft sensor noise stays consistent regardless of steering input.
Warning lights: A failing crankshaft sensor almost always triggers a check engine light. A bad wheel bearing does not.
Other symptoms: Crankshaft sensor problems can cause stalling, rough running, and hard starting. Wheel bearing problems cause vibration in the steering wheel and uneven tire wear.

If you have an OBD-II scanner, it can quickly pull diagnostic trouble codes that point to a crankshaft sensor issue. Codes like P0335 or P0336 are strong indicators.

Why do people confuse these two problems?

Both can produce a repetitive clicking or ticking sound, and if you're not familiar with car noises, they can feel similar from the driver's seat. The confusion is worse in front-wheel-drive cars where the engine and front wheel bearings are close together. Road noise and poor sound insulation can also mask where the sound is really coming from.

Another reason: some drivers hear clicking during low-speed turns and assume it's drivetrain-related. In reality, constant velocity (CV) joint failure also causes clicking during turns and is a third possibility worth ruling out. CV joint clicks are usually most noticeable during sharp, low-speed turns like parking.

What are the common mistakes when diagnosing this?

Replacing the crankshaft sensor when it's actually a wheel bearing. This wastes money and doesn't fix the problem. Always verify with a physical inspection.
Ignoring the sound because it's "just a click." Both issues get worse over time. A failing wheel bearing can seize up and cause you to lose a wheel. A bad crankshaft sensor can leave you stranded.
Not checking both sides. Wheel bearing wear can happen on either side, and sometimes both bearings wear at similar rates.
Skipping the OBD-II scan. If there's a check engine light, always start there. It's the fastest way to rule in or rule out the crankshaft position sensor.

How much does it cost to fix each one?

A crankshaft position sensor replacement typically runs between $100 and $350 depending on your vehicle and whether you go to a shop or do it yourself. The sensor itself is usually $20 to $100, with the rest going to labor. You can learn more about what affects the price by reviewing the cost breakdown for crankshaft position sensor replacement.

A wheel bearing replacement costs more usually $250 to $600 per wheel at a shop. The part is $50 to $150, but labor is higher because the hub assembly needs to be removed. On some vehicles with pressed-in bearings, the job is more involved and takes longer.

Can I drive with either of these problems?

You can drive short distances with either issue, but you shouldn't make a habit of it.

A bad crankshaft position sensor can cause your engine to stall without warning, especially at low speeds or when idling. That's a safety risk in traffic. If the ECU loses the crank signal entirely, the engine may not start at all.

A worn wheel bearing gets progressively louder and creates more friction. Driving on it too long increases the chance of the wheel hub overheating or the bearing failing catastrophically. If you hear grinding in addition to clicking, the bearing is in rough shape and needs attention soon.

For a deeper look at staying ahead of both issues, this preventive maintenance comparison covers what to watch for and when to act.

What should I do right now if I hear clicking when turning?

Start with these steps to figure out what you're dealing with:

Check for a check engine light. If it's on, use an OBD-II scanner or visit a parts store that offers free scans.
Note when the sound happens. Does it only happen when turning? Does it get louder at certain speeds? Which direction makes it worse?
Listen for the location. Roll down your windows and try to identify if the sound comes from the engine bay or one of the wheel areas.
Do the wheel bearing test. Find a safe, empty road. Drive at 20-30 mph and gently weave left and right. If the noise shifts with the turn direction, it's likely a wheel bearing.
Inspect visually. Look for grease leaking around the wheel hub (bearing failure) or around the crankshaft sensor area at the engine block (sensor seal failure).
Get a professional diagnosis if unsure. A mechanic can put the car on a lift and spin each wheel by hand to feel for bearing play.

For reference, the SAE International publishes technical standards on drivetrain components that manufacturers use when designing these systems.

Quick diagnostic checklist

✅ Check engine light on? → Scan with OBD-II likely crankshaft sensor
✅ Noise only when turning? → Likely wheel bearing or CV joint
✅ Noise changes with vehicle speed, not steering? → Likely engine-related
✅ Vibration in steering wheel at highway speed? → Likely wheel bearing
✅ Engine stalling or rough idle along with the noise? → Likely crankshaft sensor
✅ Clicking during sharp, low-speed turns only? → Could be CV joint check that too

Bottom line: If the clicking changes when you turn, start with the wheel bearing. If you also have engine trouble codes or stalling, test the crankshaft position sensor first. Getting the diagnosis right the first time keeps repair costs down and gets you back on the road safely.

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